Under The Microscope, Food Has A Big Personality

Under The Microscope, Food Has A Big Personality

Not long ago, I found myself in Copenhagen, lunching at one of the austere temples of gastronomy that have recently come to haunt that harbor city. The waiter presented a raku bowl arrayed with delectable morsels, reverently introducing the course as “gently cooked” cod with burnt wood oil and flowers gathered from the garden. My dining companion raised an eyebrow at “gently.” Another instance of the pomposity that seems to attend this admittedly glorious cuisine?